See the bonsai hiding in your tree.

Pruning decides the tree’s structure. Use clean, sharp tools (a concave cutter, knob cutter and bonsai shears), never remove more than about a third of the foliage at once, and time each cut to the species.

1. 01Structural branch pruning

   Late winter – early spring

   The big decisions: remove crossing branches, bar branches (two at the same height), branches growing back toward the trunk, and anything that hides the trunk line. On deciduous trees, cut flush with a concave cutter so the wound rolls over cleanly; on conifers, leave a short stub that can later become deadwood (jin).

2. 02Maintenance trimming

   Throughout the growing season

   Let new shoots extend, then cut them back to one or two leaves or nodes. This keeps the silhouette tight and builds fine ramification. Use sharp bonsai shears on junipers rather than pulling the tips, which browns the foliage.

3. 03Candle pruning (pines)

   Early summer

   Shorten or remove the new spring candles to balance strength between strong and weak areas and keep needles short. In autumn, pluck old needles so light reaches the interior buds.

4. 04Leaf pruning & defoliation

   Early summer, healthy trees only

   Removing some or all leaves on vigorous deciduous trees such as maples and elms triggers a second, smaller flush. Never defoliate a weak tree or one repotted the same year.

5. 05Root pruning

   At repotting, as buds swell

   Comb out the root ball and trim long, thick and circling roots by up to about a third, keeping the fine feeder roots that drive new growth.

Wiring puts movement into the trunk and branches and sets each one where it should grow. Wire conifers from autumn to early spring, and deciduous trees in late winter or once spring leaves have hardened.

1. 01Choose the right wire

   Anodized aluminum is soft and easy to reposition, ideal for deciduous trees and beginners. Annealed copper holds more strongly with a thinner gauge and is the classic choice for pines and junipers.

2. 02Pick the gauge

   Use copper wire roughly one third the thickness of the branch, and aluminum a little thicker. If the branch springs back after bending, step up a size or apply a second wire alongside the first.

3. 03Anchor and coil at 45°

   Anchor the wire on the trunk or by wiring two branches of similar thickness with one piece, then coil outward toward the tip at about a 45° angle, snug against the bark but never biting into it.

4. 04Bend slowly, support the branch

   Bend on the outside of each wire coil while supporting the branch from underneath with your thumbs. Make the shape in one smooth movement; repeated back-and-forth bending cracks the wood.

5. 05Check and remove in time

   Check the wire every week or two during the growing season. Cut it off in short pieces with wire cutters rather than unwinding it, as soon as it starts marking the bark. Rewire later if the branch springs back.